The apple tree, or Pyrus malus, is a deciduous fruit tree that reaches up to 10 m in height and belongs to the Rosaceae family. It has pale pink or white flowers and a round and fleshy fruit, the apple.

Benefits: The apple contains 11% carbohydrates (fructose, glucose, sucrose, cellulose, pectins), in addition to other minor components, but of great importance, such as organic acids (malic, citric, caffeic, chlorogenic, shikimic, galacturonic, glucuronic ), pigments, vitamins (C), minerals (potassium and phosphorus) and compounds responsible for the aroma (2-trans-hexenal).

Regarding its cosmetic properties, it is necessary to highlight the regulatory activity of the transepidermal water loss, the antioxidant activity and the stimulating activity of cell regeneration. The Table summarizes its main cosmetic actions along with the main players involved.

-Regulation of transepidermal water loss: Carbohydrates are hygroscopic, that is, they are capable of adsorbing water and therefore contribute to the hydric maintenance of the stratum corneum. Some of them form a protective film on the skin, preventing and delaying transepidermal water loss.

Kim et al. carried out a study2 to evaluate the moisturizing action and emollient properties of levan, a polysaccharide composed of fructose. This substance was observed to decrease the transepidermal loss of water from the skin after its application.

-Antioxidant: The antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds results from the combination of their iron chelating properties and their free radical scavenging properties (RL), which are the cause of aging. Polyphenols are able to neutralize free radicals and provide the body with a defensive power against the oxidative degradation of cells.

-Stimulant of cell regeneration: α-hydroxy acids (AHA) act at the level of the stratum corneum, on the cohesion of the corneocytes in the inner layers, in such a way that they promote a thinning of the stratum corneum, in addition to improving the flexibility of the skin surface.

The apple is highly recommended in cosmetic products with moisturizing, emollient and conditioning activity and to delay the aging process, due to its antioxidant and stimulating capacity for cell regeneration.

Origin: The apple extract is obtained from the fruits of Pyrus malus, from organic farming.

Traditional uses: The apple has been an important food source and is probably the oldest tree cultivated. It has been used in cases of chronic eczema of the skin when they are due to an autointoxication of the organism.

Aloe vera is a succulent plant of the Asphodeloideae subfamily within the Xanthorrhoeaceae family. It grows in semi-desert lands thanks to the design of its leaves that prevents excessive evaporation of water and its content in mucilage capable of storing a large amount of water.

Benefits: Aloe contains mostly sugars, polysaccharides, amino acids, enzymes, vitamins, lignin, minerals and other substances in lower concentration.

The Aloe extract from the gel acts as a skin conditioner and has emollient properties. Its polysaccharide content creates a layer on the surface of the skin of great moisturizing, emollient and conditioning power.

The components of the gel, such as vitamins, amino acids or minerals, are individually interesting from a cosmetic point of view, but when they are found together in the Aloe gel they produce a synergistic effect that amplifies its properties. These components represent a contribution of the most basic substances of the skin's natural hydration factor, such as amino acids, sugars and minerals.

It is also worth highlighting a substance that has an individual interest that is superior to that of the rest. It is acemannan, a mucopolysaccharide of which many properties are being studied. This substance is of great interest in cosmetics, especially in after-sun products, since the polymer covers the surface of the skin with an invisible film, reducing the loss of water through perspiration, especially in cases where the skin is dehydrated, such as after exposure to solar radiation. In addition, this film protects the skin while it regains its balance.

Origin: Aloe vera is probably native to Arabia and has become naturalized in subtropical and temperate regions of both hemispheres, including the Mediterranean. It is cultivated as a decorative plant, for medicinal or cosmetic uses, and even for food in some countries. It grows in sandy areas from sea level to 200 m of altitude.

Traditional uses: There are more than 250 different varieties of Aloe, of which only three or four have properties of interest. One of the oldest pharmaceutical applications on record can be found on a Sumerian clay tablet from the 21st century BC, but there are reports of drawings of the plant on Egyptian temple walls from the 4th millennium BC.

Benefits: Argan oil (Argania Spinosa) is very rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. It is an oil that nourishes without greasing, so it can be used in cosmetic applications for the face and body, as well as for the hair.

Its main cosmetic applications are as a powerful anti-aging, repairing and protective active for the skin and hair. The fatty acids it contains improve the elasticity of the skin and restores its usual shine. In addition, its moisturizing power helps correct imperfections and also prevents skin photoaging and the negative action of ultraviolet radiation, the destruction of collagen and the inflammatory response to external factors.

Origin: The Argan or Moroccan Quebracho tree (Argánia Spino sa), is a thorny and perennial tree that grows in an area of ​​2 million hectares between Tiznit and Essaouira, Morocco.

The tree lives between 150 and 200 years, and resists in extreme arid conditions since its deep roots allow it to survive in times of little rain. It begins to bear its first fruits from the sixth year, approximately. Once it is fruitful, it provides a harvest per year that matures in June.

Each fruit has a coated nut that contains two or three seeds (almonds), from which the oil is extracted. It takes a minimum of 35 kg of seeds (what a tree produces in one season) to obtain one liter of the precious argan oil.

Traditional uses: the argan tree was already food for 3 centuries. The Berbers used it as the basis of their diet, and in traditional medicine and cosmetics.

When the world discovered its properties, there was overexploitation. So much so, that in 1998 UNESCO named the argan forests of Morocco as a Biosphere Reserve.

Benefits: The ground apricot kernels act as natural exfoliants: when rubbed gently on the skin, they remove dead cells from the surface, leaving the face soft, silky and glowing. Dead cells, natural oils, makeup, and dirt that accumulate from day to day can clog skin pores; A good exfoliation allows, precisely, to show off a cleaner and better-looking face.

Origin: Organic apricot kernels (Prunus armeniaca) are ground and sieved to obtain soft particles. Exfoliation with natural ingredients is the greener alternative to brightening the skin: none of the KUESHI products contain microplastics (pollutants of the oceans), nor will they contain them.

Apricot kernel oil is instantly absorbed leaving skin feeling soft and smooth. It is very effective as a moisturizer due to its content of carbohydrates and α-hydroxy acids (AHA) that adsorb water and help keep the outermost part of the skin hydrated and reduce water loss.

Apricot kernel oil also contains vitamin C and phenolic compounds that provide antioxidant properties, capable of neutralizing free radicals and slowing down the degenerative process of cells. In such a way that it reduces wrinkles and gives luminosity.

It is one of the best vegetable oils in terms of nutrition, regulating cell regeneration, it also has an enormous, very effective soothing capacity with the most sensitive skin.

Although it is suitable for all skin types, it is especially beneficial for dry or sensitive skin.

Beet belongs to the Quenopodiaceae family and its extract is obtained from the roots of Beta vulgaris L.

Benefits: Among the components that beet contains, its pigments stand out, essential for coloring cosmetic products naturally:

Mainly, betalains (quaternary ammonium indoles) are mainly composed of betacyanins (red) and betaxanthines (yellow) to a lesser extent. Among the betalains, the vulgaxanthins I and II, indicaxanthin, betanin, isobetanin, prebetanin and neobetanin stand out.

In addition, in the composition of beets we find sugars (sucrose, fructose and glucose), minerals (potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium and iron) and other active ingredients such as Vitamins (A, B1, B2 and C), fiber, pectins, glutamine , choline, betaine, asparagine, tryptophan, bethalamic acid, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, proteins, saponins, triterpenoids, phytoalexins, isoramnetin, cyclodopa and N-formylcyclodopa (glucosides) and flavonoids.

The use of beet in cosmetics is justified by its various activities: antioxidants, moisturizer, stimulant of collagen synthesis, vitamins and mineralizers.

- Antioxidant: Associated with phenolic compounds such as caffeic acid, hydroxybenzoic acid or epicatechin, which act synergistically, as demonstrated in a study carried out by Georgiev in 2010. In addition, as we know, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant agent with activity antiradical very useful against photoaging.

- Humectant: Due to sugars, mineral salts and amino acids that are hygroscopic, helping to stop dehydration. At the same time, they form a protective film on the skin that delays transepidermal water loss (dehydration).

- Stimulant of collagen synthesis: Thanks to vitamin C, which is essential for the hydroxylation of proline and, therefore, in the production and maintenance of the integrity of collagen.

- Vitamin and mineralizing: In addition to vitamin C, beets are rich in B vitamins and minerals, all of which are involved in the good condition of the skin and in cell renewal processes.

Origin: It comes from the so-called wild chard or maritime beet, and it is native to the Mediterranean countries. Its cultivation is very old, dating from the second century BC, and it gave rise to two different vegetables: one with abundant foliage, chard, and another with a thickened and fleshy root, beet.

Traditional uses: In principle, ancient civilizations only consumed beet leaves, however, the root of the plant was used as a medicine to combat toothaches and headaches. It is known that the Romans consumed this root, but it was not until the 16th century when it returned to the diet, in this case, of the English and the Germans. Over the years, the cultivation of table beets has grown and improved.

At present, its consumption is very widespread in all countries with a temperate climate, especially in Europe. Today it is cultivated in almost all the countries of the world with a temperate climate; It is grown as an annual, although it is biannual, in order to avoid flowering and further develop the root and, therefore, its amount of sucrose.

The bilberry or blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is a lively shrub, belonging to the Ericaceae family. It bears a berry-shaped fruit with a typical bluish color.

Benefits: It has exfoliating properties thanks to its outstanding content of lactic acid, a natural alpha hydroxy acid. It works by leaving the skin free of impurities, promoting cell renewal and reducing blemishes and imperfections. It also has remarkable antioxidant properties, which help neutralize free radicals, leaving skin smoother and younger looking.

Origin: The blueberry is a fruit native to North America. Its consumption has increased globally, mainly due to its reputation for increasing health and longevity.

Calendula officinalis is an annual aromatic plant belonging to the Asteraceae (Composite) family, characterized by being close to 50 cm high, with orange-yellow central flowers.

Benefits: Calendula contains numerous components of great interest in cosmetic applications. Table 1 includes the main cosmetic actions of calendula together with the description of the active principles involved in them.

-Wetting activity: It is due to its content in saponins and mucilages. These active principles have moisturizing capacity (retention of water and its transfer to the skin). Thanks to this property, calendula is ideal for formulating cosmetic products for dry, dehydrated, irritated or delicate skin. It is recommended when formulating cosmetics for after sun exposure, as well as after-shave products.

- Anti-inflammatory activity: The topical use of calendula-based preparations is widely extended thanks to its anti-inflammatory activity, which has been widely proven for a long time. In several studies4,5 that used an experimental animal model, it has been shown that calendula extract has an anti-inflammatory effect, due to its content of triterpenes, mainly monoesters of faradiol. Thus, calendula extract is indicated when formulating cosmetic products for sensitive or irritated skin.

- Immunomodulatory activity: Calendula flowers have shown immunomodulatory activity in animal experimentation models and with human cells in vitro. This activity is due to the presence of immunostimulating polysaccharides. It is important that the immune system is active so that it can protect the skin from damage caused by internal and external agents. With the photoaging process, this system deteriorates, causing less cell regeneration. Therefore, calendula extract is useful when formulating cosmetics intended to combat photoaging.

Finally, it is interesting to note that the European Commission attributes healing properties to calendula and that anti-inflammatory effects have been observed after topical applications.

Origin: Calendula is native to the Mediterranean region and is widely distributed throughout the world as an ornamental plant. It tolerates all types of soils, preferably clayey, hence it is widely used in flowerbeds and urban gardens.

Traditional uses: Historically, calendula has been used topically for skin ulcers, infected wounds, diaper rash, eczema, varicose veins, etc.

Calendula extract is obtained from the flower heads of Calendula officinalis, by means of its extraction with a mixture of glycerin and water.

The carrot belongs to the Umbelliferae family, Daucus carota species. The cultivated forms are derived from Daucus carota, a sativa variety.

Benefits: Of the many nutrients it contains, it is worth highlighting its content of vitamin A and carotenoids, as they are substances with a high antioxidant capacity, which is of great interest to avoid the generation of free radicals in the skin during exposure to solar radiation. .

A medium-sized carrot covers between 89% and 112% of the daily needs of vitamin A and carotenoids with provitamin A activity.

These carotenoids are transformed into vitamin A, which contributes to the maintenance of the skin, combats the signs of aging such as expression marks, wrinkles, pigmentation and uneven skin tone. The most abundant is b-carotene (6,628 μg / 100 g), followed by a-carotene (2,895 μg / 100 g).

Origin: The carrot is a plant native to Eurasia and North Africa and widely distributed throughout the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The carrot has a thickened taproot (orange in color), which accumulates the necessary nutrients to maintain the aerial part, which is formed if it is left in the soil during the second year of growth. The stem carries an umbel of white or pink flowers similar to a nest.

The oily extract is obtained after a prolonged maceration of the oleoresin from the carrot root in organic sunflower oil.

Centella asiatica is a green to reddish annual climbing plant that belongs to the Umbelliferae family. Gotu kola is a tender plant, with numerous climbing stems with roots at the nodes.

Benefits: Centella asiatica has a complex composition that includes triterpenic saponins and genins, flavonoids (isoquercitrin, astragalin), tannins, phytosterols (beta sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol), amino acids, sugars, essential oil, fatty acids, etc. The plant has many important cosmetic benefits derived from its triterpene content. These benefits can be grouped into three main groups (Table 1): Stimulation of collagen synthesis, antioxidant and with activity on vascular tone.

Table 1 - Stimulating activity of collagen synthesis: The triterpenes of Centella asiatica have modulating properties on the development and metabolism of connective tissue. In an animal study, a 0.2% solution of asiaticoside, applied topically twice daily for seven days, has been shown to produce a 57% increase in tensile strength, higher collagen content, and better epithelialization, in comparison. with a control. In cosmetic use, these substances could improve the recovery of skin subjected to stress induced by solar radiation, allowing a rapid recovery of elasticity. -Antioxidant activity: Different studies show that centella extract is recommended when formulating cosmetic products to protect the skin and hair against oxidative processes.

Origin: This plant grows native in Asia, India, South Africa and different areas of China and America. Legend has it that tigers used to rub themselves with Tiger Grass (sparkling plant) to heal their wounds.

Traditional uses: The use of centella in the treatment of dermatological conditions has a long tradition in some regions of origin of this plant, such as India and Sri Lanka, where it is used to accelerate the healing of minor wounds, superficial burns and varicose ulcers. . Gotu kola has also traditionally been used as an anti-inflammatory, particularly in cases of eczema, as well as irritations.

The plant is harvested by hand every three months. A glycolic extract is obtained from the leaves that is used as an ingredient in cosmetics.

Chamomila recutita is an annual herbaceous plant with white petal flowers and a characteristic yellow corolla.

Benefits: The chemical composition of Chamomile is characterized by the presence of flavonoids, coumarins, essential oils and polysaccharides, components that have different cosmetic applications:

-Tonic and decongestant facial treatments for delicate and irritated skin.

-Decongestant body treatments, for tired legs and delicate skin.

-Sun protectors and soothing products for after the sun.

-Repair hair products for blond hair and treatments for scalp problems (rashes, itching).

From the point of view of its action in a cosmetic intended to regenerate the skin after exposure to solar radiation, the most interesting substances are flavonoids and essential oil components (Table 1).

Various studies have been carried out to verify the properties of chamomile extracts. The results obtained show that they present a powerful anti-inflammatory action, being superior in the fraction that contains flavonoids, as in the aqueous extracts of the flowers. The flavonoids (0.5-3.0%) present are mainly flavones (apigenin, luteonin) and flavonols (quercetin, isorhamnetin, myricetin, patuletin). One of the causes to which the anti-inflammatory action is attributed seems to be due to the anti-free radical action of flavonoids and inhibition of the formation of the superoxide radical. This free radical neutralizing action protects the skin from deterioration and helps to regain its balance. Therefore, chamomile extract is indicated in cosmetics designed to restore the skin after exposure to the sun.

Origin: The plant is native to Central Europe, it grew abundantly in Greece and since ancient times, it was known for its peculiar perfume. The flower heads are the part used, from which the components are derived for use in cosmetics and in other industries such as pharmaceuticals and veterinary medicine. These are harvested 3-4 times a year, they are left to dry in the shade, in a ventilated place or at a maximum temperature of 35ºC.

Ecologically grown chamomile and glycerin of plant origin are used to obtain the extract.

Chlorophylls are a family of green pigments found in cyanobacteria and all those organisms that contain chloroplasts or tylokoid membranes in their cells, which includes higher plants and algae. Chlorophyll is a very important biomolecule, essential in photosynthesis, a process that allows plants and algae to produce energy from sunlight.

Benefits: Chlorophyll absorbs blue light (400-500 nm) and red light (600-700 nm), reflecting the part of the optical spectrum that it does not absorb and corresponds to the green color. It is an ideal colorant to use in cosmetics as it is biodegradable since it is obtained from natural sources, it gives the cosmetic product a natural green color according to its content of ingredients of vegetable origin.

Origin: It is obtained from the chlorophyll contained in green leafy plants such as spinach and chard.

Cucumis sativus is an annual herbaceous plant of the Cucurbitaceae family.

Benefits: Cucumber contains a large amount of substances that act in a complementary way to each other, favoring the action of other cosmetic active principles. It should be noted its content in vitamins (C, B1, B2, B3 and B9), minerals (K, Cl, P, Ca, Na, Mg, Fe, Mn, Zn and Cu), phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic acid, acid hydroxycinnamic, flavones and flavonols), carbohydrates (glucose, fructose, sucrose, starch, cellulose, hemicellulose and pectins), organic acids (citric and malic), bitter principles (cucurbitin) and substances responsible for the aroma.

Regarding its application in cosmetics, its benefits are grouped into three main actions (Table 1):

-Regulatory activity of transepidermal water loss (TEWL): Carbohydrates are hygroscopic, that is, they are capable of adsorbing water and therefore contribute to the hydric maintenance of the stratum corneum. These actives act by forming hydrogen bonds, preventing massive water loss and slowing dehydration. In addition, some of these compounds form a protective film on the skin, preventing and delaying transepidermal water loss.

There is clinical and laboratory evidence that topical application of vitamins is helpful in preventing, slowing or stopping dryness, peeling of the skin, and the formation of wrinkles. Vitamins E, A and C are of particular interest in cosmetics. Thus, cucumber extract helps regulate skin hydration, exerting a moisturizing, refreshing and decongestant action.

-Vitamin and mineralizing activity: The vitamins and minerals of cucumber strengthen the skin against stress, improve its protective capacities and reduce the most premature signs of aging.

Regarding beauty and functionality, there are studies that indicate that certain vitamins and their derivatives improve the results of cosmetics. In addition, there are clinical and laboratory tests that show that these vitamins, in adequate amounts, play an important role in the protection, correction and renewal of the skin. In addition, the natural character of vitamins favors their use to soften the skin and regain its optimal water balance. Thus, cucumber extract is recommended when formulating cosmetic products with stimulating and revitalizing activity for the skin.

-Antioxidant activity: Phenolic compounds have antioxidant action, which depends mainly on their ability to reduce free radicals and complete metal cations, preventing catalytic reactions that favor the generation of free radicals.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant agent, with anti-free radical activity, which is very useful in the treatment of photoaging. Therefore, cucumber extract is recommended when formulating cosmetic products intended to preserve the integrity of the skin from oxidative processes.

Origin: The cucumber is a green-skinned vegetable, with a cylindrical and elongated shape of about 30 cm that is grown in many countries, outdoors or in a greenhouse. The interior is a white and watery pulp with small flattened seeds distributed along the body of the fruit.

Cucumber extract is obtained from the fruit of Cucumis sativus, from organic farming.

Theobroma cacao L. is the scientific name for the cacao tree, an evergreen plant of the Malvaceae family. The main components of cocoa beans, cocoa shell and the germs of these seeds are fat, followed by proteins and fiber.

Benefits: Cocoa has many applications in cosmetics, ranging from the use of cocoa butter as an emollient ingredient, to specific actions of its components: lipolytic, stimulant of circulation and antioxidant.

We will focus mainly on its antioxidant activity, whose cosmetic application can be used against aging, for the protection of hair coloring and as an adjunct to protection against solar radiation.

In cocoa beans there are polyphenol storage cells (pigment cells) that constitute 11-13% of the tissue. Polyphenols are powerful antioxidants that protect LDL from oxidative damage in several ways: As antioxidants, trapping free radicals. Due to its ability to inhibit, activate or protect specific enzymes in the body. And for its properties of reducing the consumption of its own oxidants, such as vitamin E and carotenoids.

Flavonoids are the most abundant polyphenols in cocoa. The catechins and procyanidins isolated from cocoa have important antioxidant properties in vitro, as demonstrated by comparing the catechins in chocolate with those in tea, with respect to which they show an antioxidant effect 4 times greater.

For all these reasons, Eco cocoa extract is recommended for formulating cosmetic products with protective activity for the skin and hair against oxidative processes.

Origin: The cacao plant received its name from Carl von Linné (18th century) who used the Greek terms: theos ("god") and joke ("food"), to define this special species: "food of the gods" .

Theobroma cacao L. is a tree 4-7 meters tall when cultivated, but wild cacao can grow to 20 meters or more. The fruit, known as cacao, is a large berry commonly called “cob”, fleshy, oblong, red or purple-yellow, 15 to 30 cm long and 7 to 10 cm thick.

Traditional uses: Cocoa and chocolate were traditionally used as energizers and as a general tonic to protect against diseases. They have also been used to stimulate appetite, increase physical endurance, and reduce fatigue. Some cultures used it as an aphrodisiac.

Today, it is credited with the ability to enhance the senses, maintain alertness, reduce tension and general well-being. The organoleptic characteristics of chocolate, as well as its stimulating properties, have made this ingredient one of the most famous in the world.

The Dragon Fruit, also known as Pitaya, is the fruit of a cactus native to Mexico, which when mature, the skin acquires a light pink color.

Benefits: Its beta-cyanine content gives dragon fruit antioxidant properties. In addition, due to the mucilages present in its composition, it has a moisturizing and refreshing action. Dragon fruit can also be used in products for tired and stressed skin, as well as for eye contours, due to its content in different vitamins.

Origin: The Aztec people in Central America cultivated the dragon fruit, because they attributed digestive properties to it in their traditional medicine. Currently, traditional Taiwanese medicine uses it as a substitute for rice in diabetic people, due to its significant carbohydrate content.

Fucus extract is obtained from the alga Fucus vesiculosus L, a seaweed that grows extensively in shallow waters off the rocky northeastern Atlantic coast, and off the eastern coasts of the United States.

Benefits: Fucus is rich in mucilage, soluble glucosanos, trace elements and mineral salts, as well as containing other active principles such as carotenoids. Its moisturizing activity stands out, because its alginates dissolve in water, forming viscous colloidal solutions that spread well on the skin, providing hydration and a texture that is pleasant to the touch. It also has a calming action, due to the mucilages that make it up, as well as anti-aging action, reducing the thickness of the skin and increasing its elasticity.

Origin: since ancient times this plant has been used as an analgesic in joint pain. It has also been used as a dietary supplement in obesity and endocrinopathies, as well as in the treatment of gastroesophageal reflux, and as an anticoagulant and diuretic. Thanks to its properties, fucus is used in anti-cellulite gels and creams and as a regenerator for dry and cracked skin.

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) better tolerated by sensitive skin than conventional alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), even in people with rosacea and atopic dermatitis.

Benefits: It has many properties of interest in cosmetics:

-Peeling effect: It has a gentle exfoliating effect by promoting the elimination of dead cells from the epidermis. This peeling action clears spots and helps cell renewal. It is especially effective in repairing the effects of aging skin caused by solar radiation, lightening the skin and increasing the thickness of the epidermis.

-Conditioner of the skin barrier function: PHA has a greater capacity to improve the skin barrier function than conventional AHAs. In one study, the efficacy of three different AHAs was compared to gluconolactone in relation to improving the barrier function of the skin. Subjects' skin was treated with the substances and sodium lauryl sulfate was used to promote skin irritation. Gluconolactone was able to prevent skin irritation when applying the surfactant, thanks to the modulation of the barrier function of the stratum corneum.

-Great moisturizing capacity: PHA has great water absorption and retention capacity, superior to AHAs. It fills in the small wrinkles of the skin, improving the tone, luminosity and the barrier function of the stratum corneum of the skin, increasing its resistance to chemical aggression.

-Capture of free radicals: PHA has a great capacity to capture free radicals, reducing photoaging of the skin without increasing its sensitivity to UV radiation.

In a clinical study, the properties of gluconolactone were compared with those of conventional AHAs in relation to photoaging of the skin. Both gluconolactone and AHAs achieved important anti-aging benefits, while the main differences were obtained in terms of irritation and tolerance of the product. Gluconolactone produced less irritation in the individuals who used it, in relation to the group of people who used AHA, for whom the burning and stinging of the skin were significantly higher.

Origin: Gluconolactone is a substance present in nature, since it is related to gluconic acid, which in turn is derived from glucose. It is produced commercially by microorganisms that ferment glucose. Its safety is proven and in fact it is even used as a food additive.

Grapefruit is a round or slightly oval fruit, flattened by the poles, that has a smooth skin of a pale lemon color. It is a very juicy fruit with an acid flavor, which as it ripens it becomes sweeter.

Benefits: It has a high content of Vitamin C, which is a powerful antioxidant, with anti-radical activity that is very useful in the treatment of photoaging, since it helps to neutralize the rays generated by UVB rays, although protective effects have also been shown against UVA rays. In addition to vitamin C, its lycopene and naringin content also give it this antioxidant power.

Vitamin C also helps build and maintain the integrity of collagen by hydroxylating proline. And it reduces the production of the metalproteinase enzyme that is responsible for degrading collagen in the dermis. It also has a purifying action thanks to the flavonoids.

Origin: The grapefruit extract is extracted from the fruit of Citrus decumana L.

The essence prepared from the flowers has been taken since ancient times to prevent insomnia, and also as a stomach and heart tonic. The pulp is also considered an effective treatment for gastric and cardiac disorders.

Benefits: Grapeseed oil is a perfect ingredient for weakened or damaged skin, as it can help maintain the structure of epithelial cells. Contains proanthocyanidins, inhibitors of adverse reactions produced as a result of exposure to UV radiation. So these natural polyphenols are very effective as anti-aging products, helping to prevent wrinkles. In addition, grapeseed oil has a high content of fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, which regulates keratinization, softening and calming the skin, and its use is optimal for the care of oily and sensitive skin. Its high content of emollients also helps to rebalance skin water loss caused by perspiration.

Origin: Oil obtained from the seeds of Vitis vinifera, commonly known as Parra, Cepa or Vid, this climbing plant is a species native to the Mediterranean Basin and the Middle East.

Green tea contains caffeine that works as a stimulant of the nervous system, activates blood circulation and decongests the areas where it is applied.

Benefits: Green tea has a great antioxidant power due to its high content of polyphenols, especially catechins. It also has high levels of vitamins (A, B2, C and E), and minerals (calcium, fluorine, phosphorus, iron, potassium, magnesium, sodium or zinc).

This makes him see you help to delay the cellular aging process, conserve the moisture of the skin, strengthen the protective layer of the skin, unify the tone and reduce inflammation. In addition, it helps to inhibit the degradation of collagen, maintaining and improving the elasticity of the skin.

Green tea is also astringent and has purifying properties, which makes it ideal for keeping skin shine at bay throughout the day.

Origin: The tea plant comes from southern China and Southeast Asia, although today it is cultivated throughout the world, both in tropical and subtropical regions. It is one of the 50 fundamental herbs used in traditional Chinese medicine.

Green tea contains caffeine that works as a stimulant of the nervous system, activates blood circulation and decongests the areas where it is applied.

Benefits: Green tea has a great antioxidant power due to its high content of polyphenols, especially catechins. It also has high levels of vitamins (A, B2, C and E), and minerals (calcium, fluorine, phosphorus, iron, potassium, magnesium, sodium or zinc).

This makes him see you help to delay the cellular aging process, conserve the moisture of the skin, strengthen the protective layer of the skin, unify the tone and reduce inflammation. In addition, it helps to inhibit the degradation of collagen, maintaining and improving the elasticity of the skin.

Green tea is also astringent and has purifying properties, which makes it ideal for keeping skin shine at bay throughout the day.

Origin: The tea plant comes from southern China and Southeast Asia, although today it is cultivated throughout the world, both in tropical and subtropical regions. It is one of the 50 fundamental herbs used in traditional Chinese medicine.

This ingredient comes from the Cannabis sativa plant. It is an extract that contains cannabidiol (CBD).

Benefits: Cannabis sativa extract softens and conditions the skin thanks to its content of amino acids and other nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, etc.

The skin is continuously subjected to a low-intensity inflammation process, a defense mechanism of the body to respond to external aggressions (temperature, solar radiation, irritants, oxidants, free radicals, etc.), facilitate the repair of tissues and its normal operation. This process produces a degradation of collagen and elastin, leading to the appearance of wrinkles and aging of the skin. Substances such as CBD, along with other components present in hemp, which act synergistically, balance these processes, helping collagen and elastin not deteriorate.

Origin: The Cannabis sativa plant is native to Asia and evidence of its use has been found dating back to the year 3000 A. The varieties whose cultivation is legal are called industrial hemp, and a great variety of products can be obtained from them.

In this variety, its CBD content stands out, one of the 113 cannabinoids found in cannabis, this being not psychoactive, unlike THC. The seeds contain 34% protein and are considered a very complete food, for this reason it is a raw material of great value to obtain extracts with excellent cosmetic properties.

This oil is obtained from the seeds of specific varieties of Cannavis sativa called industrial hemp, which are those intended for food, fiber production or cosmetic use.

Benefits: Hemp seed oil is an edible oil that contains a high proportion of unsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic (omega 3), linolenic (omega 6) and oleic acid.

The essential fatty acids give it excellent properties to reestablish the balance of the skin, especially when it is subjected to irritative phenomena. Hemp seed oil is also highly appreciated for its emollient and regenerating properties, which is why it is used in the cosmetic field in all kinds of products aimed at improving the nutrition and appearance of the skin.

Action of the ingredient in the cosmetic product:

- Provides emollient, nourishing and regenerating properties.

- Penetrates to the deep layers of the epidermis, helping to maintain the natural balance and hydration of the tissues.

- Its high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids has antioxidant effects, helping to prevent the effects of aging.

- Regulates sebaceous secretion without clogging pores, which is why it is tolerated by people with any skin type, even those with oily skin.

- It is also of great help in the recovery of the skin after exposure to the sun.

- It is absorbed quickly and does not leave a greasy feeling on the skin.

- Allows easy transport of other lipid-soluble active ingredients.

Origin: It is necessary to differentiate between the oil obtained from seeds and the informally called cannabis oil, which is actually an oily extract of hemp flowers or buds and therefore has a high concentration of cannabinoids, including psychoactive substances such as THC, whose use is not allowed neither in food nor in cosmetics.

The oil used by KUESHI is of first cold pressing of ecological origin.

This is especially important in this ingredient, given the peculiarities of the hemp plant. On the one hand, cold extraction of the oil ensures that the essential omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids are intact, without degrading them. On the other hand, the hemp plant has the ability to grow in any type of terrain, even those that are poor in nutrients.

Hydrafence has been developed as a global skin protector, to create it, a part of the calcareous algae with a high calcium content is extracted, and this is incorporated into the matrix of the rice amylopectin, causing it to be released slowly.

This alga, Lithothamnion calcareum, is known to be an important source of calcium, and calcium plays a key role in the biology of the epidermis, helping to control enzyme activity, gene expression, and keratinocyte differentiation.

Benefits: Hydrafence has a triple defense action that helps combat external aggressions, also restores the skin's ability to generate its own ceramides, and helps increase the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis. That is, it unites the skin from the inside and protects it from the outside.

Origin: The technique of the protector of the "Wall" of the skin, is based on the Great Wall of China, which with the Ming dynasty, stopped building only with mud, incorporating rice flour, rich in amylopectin, achieving a stronger material , flexible and with a greater retention of water that helped to reinforce the borders against the attacks.

Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight polymer, around 4x10 Da, naturally present in the human body, such as joints, cartilage and skin, although it is estimated that 50% of total hyaluronic acid is found in the skin, between 7-8 g on average in adults.

This molecule forms a continuous three-dimensional network that provides relative rigidity, due to the formation of hydrogen bonding between neighboring molecules. The presence of a large number of hydroxyl groups in the molecule allows it to couple a large number of water molecules inside the network. At the same time, the presence of carboxyl groups allows it to retain positively charged ions such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, etc.

Benefits: It has different functions in the body, highlighting among them its action as a moisturizing and support agent on the skin, allowing it to stay young.

Its use in cosmetics is related to its ability to absorb several thousand times its weight in water and creates a protective film on the skin, increasing the level of water in the epidermis, thus improving its regeneration.

The benefits for the skin can be grouped into 4 large groups:

1. Hydration: Thanks to its ability to absorb water and retain molecules in its structure.
2. Helps the formation of collagen: Promotes the formation of collagen, favoring the support and firmness of the skin.
3. Rejuvenates the skin: In skin aging there is a significant decrease in hydration, with hyaluronic acid being the main substance related to this process.
4. Wrinkle reduction: Hyaluronic acid molecules absorb water and expand, filling in small wrinkles, which improves the appearance of the skin.

Hyaluronic acid with a variable molecular weight is used in cosmetics. The higher molecular weight fractions increase the viscosity of the solutions, generate a film on the skin with viscoelastic and moisturizing properties, without being occlusive, and act as a skin conditioner. The low molecular weight fractions increase the moisture level of the skin and accelerate the repair processes.

The hyaluronic acid used by KUESHI has a combination of high and low molecular weight, which results in greater efficacy due to the different actions of each type of molecule. Both act synergistically, nourishing the skin, increasing hydration and improving its appearance.

Origin: It is obtained from natural sources by bioengineering techniques through a process of bacterial fermentation of uric acid.

Simmondsia chinensis, commonly called jojoba, is a shrubby plant native to the Sonoran Desert (between the border of Mexico and the United States) and the Mojave Desert in the United States.

Benefits: Jojoba oil is not properly an oil but a liquid wax, since it has 96% ceramides in its composition. It is the only liquid vegetable wax at room temperature, a characteristic that differentiates it from other vegetable waxes. This quality provides it with extraordinary stability against heat and oxidation.

Among the cosmetic properties that jojoba oil presents, the following stand out:

-Improve both states of extreme dryness and imbalances in the production of skin sebum.

-Avoids the accumulation of sebum, helping to prevent the effects of acne while promoting the recovery of acne skin.

-Nourishes the skin, promotes cell regeneration and improves hydration. In addition, jojoba oil contains vitamins A, B, B1, C and E, which act as antioxidants, reducing free radicals.

-Improves elasticity, firmness and smoothness of the skin.

Origin: Jojoba is a plant that grows in dry and desert areas. It is a shrub of about 5 meters in height that is perennial and grows wild. The jojoba fruit has a seed inside (2 to 4 cm) used to extract the oil from them. It is obtained from the cold pressing of the seeds of the jojoba fruit, to avoid altering its properties due to the increase in temperature.

Traditional uses: Known since ancient times, the American Indians used jojoba oil to care for their hair, as food, as medicine and even topically to protect themselves from solar radiation.

Mango is green at first and takes on yellow or orange hues when ripe. It has a sweet and slightly sour taste, if it has not fully matured.

Benefits: The main action of mango is hydration, it helps not to lose the transepidermal water of the skin (TEWL), thanks to its content of carbohydrates, which are capable of absorbing water, in addition to helping to avoid the loss of this, thus slowing down dehydration. While its high content of α-hydroxy acids, they help stimulate cell regeneration. It also stands out for its vitamin C content, which gives it a stimulating activity of collagen synthesis, and an antioxidant action.

Origin: The Mangifera indica is an evergreen tree of medium to large size.

Traditional uses: A single mango provides the vitamin C necessary for the day, two thirds of the needs of Vitamin A, almost half of the needs of vitamin E, a few of the fiber necessary for the body, and a high combination of minerals including iron and potassium.

Mentha piperita belongs to the Lamiaceae family and is commonly known as peppermint. It is a perennial plant, 50 to 90 cm tall.

Benefits: Peppermint contains phenolic acids, flavonoids, essential oil, tannins, and small amounts of triterpenes (ursolic acid, oleanilic acid). Its aqueous extract stands out in cosmetics for having antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.

-Antioxidant activity: In a study 1 different extracts of mint were examined. Caffeic acid, eriocitrin, luteolin-7-O-glucoside and rosmarinic acid were identified as powerful radical scavengers, tested using the HPLC-DPPH method.

In another study 2 it is found that the aqueous extract is one of the most powerful among those tested, since it is shown that, to act as an antioxidant, it can use different ways to sequester and neutralize free radicals. The most abundant components are eriocitrin and rosmarinic acid. Therefore, this ingredient helps preserve the integrity of the skin against oxidative processes.

-Anti-inflammatory activity: Experimentally it is shown that rosmarinic acid acts on the formation of prostaglandins (PGE2), in a similar way to non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. It was also found to cause inhibition of complement factor C3, a mediator of the inflammatory process involving neither the cyclo-oxygenase pathway nor the prostacyclinsynthetase activity. This activity is of interest to formulate anti-irritant cosmetics.

-Antimicrobial activity: Aqueous mint leaf extracts have been shown to be antiviral against Influenza A, Newcastle disease virus, Herpes simplex virus, and Vaccinia virus in egg and cell culture systems.

Rosmarinic acid has antibacterial properties against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. It is bacteriostatic, especially against S. aureus and S. epidermis. It also shows fungicidal activity against Candida albicans.

Origin: Mint is common in Europe and the United States, usually in crops. Mentha piperita is believed to be a natural hybrid between good grass and water mint. The mint extract used by KUESHI is obtained from the leaves of Mentha piperita, from organic farming.

Traditional uses: Mint is one of the oldest medicinal herbs. The ancient Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians used this herb for culinary and medicinal purposes. It has been used as an anticatarrhal, antimicrobial, rubefacient, stimulant, etc. In external application, it is used in neuralgia, myalgia, headaches, etc.

Avena sativa is an annual herbaceous plant belonging to the poaceae family.

Benefits: Oats contain proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals of high biological value. In addition, it is the cereal with the highest proportion of vegetable fat, with 54% unsaturated fats and 46% linoleic acid. It also contains easily absorbed carbohydrates, free ions (calcium, zinc, copper, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, potassium and sodium), vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B6 and E) and a good amount of fibers.

KUESHI uses an extract from the grain of oats that contains natural polymers of high molecular weight that form a three-dimensional network, allowing it to adhere to the surface of the skin forming a cohesive and continuous layer, which does not leave a greasy or sticky touch on the skin, being also odorless and colorless.

Its main cosmetic use is due to the tightening effect that this layer produces on the skin. In addition, the viscoelastic properties of this invisible sheet adapt to the movements and flexions of the skin, protecting it from attacks by external agents and producing an immediate lifting effect.

This effect has been evaluated in two ways, using a panel of volunteers and using instrumental techniques. 82% of the volunteers in a trained panel felt a significant sensation of immediate tightening effect after its application. Instrumental evaluation by cutometry shows short-term efficacy, with a significant tightening effect after 2 h after a single application.

Origin: The extract is obtained from organically grown oats.

Complex consisting of six types of teas popular in Korea, consisting of persimon leaf, cinnamon bark, Japanese mugwort leaf, chrysanthemum flower, Chinese quince, and green tea leaf.

PERSIMON: Deciduous tree native to China, whose fruits can be eaten fresh, as well as dried, raw or cooked. Its leaves have been traditionally used as tea in Korea, due to its high content of vitamin C and polyphenols.

Benefits: Persimon tea helps detoxify the body and improve the immune system. In addition, its leaves are rich in Vitamin C and polyphenols, which have shown an anti-wrinkle effect and an inhibitory effect on tyrosine.

CINNAMON: Widely cultivated in South-East Asia, its aromatic rind is commonly used for culinary purposes.

Benefits: This bark is also known for its antioxidant, purifying and soothing functions.

ARTEMISIA: Perennial plant that grows in East Asia, its aromatic leaves are used in traditional Japanese cuisine.

Benefits: Traditionally Mugwort has been used to increase blood circulation, because it raises the temperature of the skin. In addition, it has a purifying, calming and antioxidant action.

CHRYSANTHEMUS: Perennial herb widely distributed throughout East Asia, the flowers of which have traditionally been used as tea.

Benefits: Scientific research has shown its antioxidant, purifying and calming properties.

QUINCE: Although it can be consumed as fresh fruit, the quince is more used to make liquors and jam.

Benefits: This fruit contains flavonodes and triterpenes, thanks to which it is attributed purifying, antioxidant and soothing properties.

GREEN TEA: It is the most popular tea in East Asia.

Benefits: Green tea contains numerous compounds, such as polyphenols, alkaloids, and vitamins. What gives it purifying, soothing and antioxidant properties. This complex has shown excellent antioxidant effects, by reducing the amount of free radicals, and anti-wrinkle, by increasing elasticity and reducing the breakdown of collagen in the skin.

Complex of four plants of oriental origin composed of pomegranate, fig, mulberry and ginkgo extract, which shows excellent anti-aging efficacy, by eliminating free radicals and reducing the formation of wrinkles on the skin.

POMEGRANATE: Native to the Persia region and the western range of the Himalayas, it is currently widely cultivated in East Asia.

Benefit: It is a great source of Vitamin C, B5, potassium, and polyphenols. The most abundant polyphenols are tannins, and within these, punicalagins, responsible for the antioxidant activity of Pomegranate.

FIGS: Ficus Carica is a flowering plant native to the Middle East and Western Asia.

Benefit: Figs are rich in calcium and fiber, as well as a good source of potassium, which helps control blood pressure. They also contain various flavonoid compounds, anthocyanins and phytosterols.

MORERA: Morus alba, commonly known as white mulberry, is native to northern China, where its leaves and fruits have traditionally been used to treat various diseases.

Benefit: The fruit of this plant has shown antioxidant activity, in addition to inhibiting melanin synthesis.

GINKO: Originally from China, and considered its fruit as a delicacy during special occasions.

Benefit: Both walnuts and leaves have very high levels of antioxidants, due to their high concentration of vitamins C and E. In addition, walnuts and their fruits are a rich source of amino acids, fatty acids, sugars, and vitamins. Thanks to the mixture of these plants, a complex with antioxidant action is obtained, by stimulating the inhibition of free radicals. In addition, it also helps to increase the elasticity of the skin, thus achieving an anti-wrinkle effect.

The pulp of papaya is yellow-orange in color, juicy, fragrant and sugary, containing numerous black, round and rough pea-sized seeds.

Benefits: Papaya has antioxidant and purifying activity. In addition, papain gives it keratolytic properties, producing an exfoliating effect on the skin's surface. Its moisturizing action also stands out, thanks to carbohydrates and α-hydroxy acids, the latter also causing a stimulating effect on cell regeneration.

Origin: The Carica papaya is considered a giant herbaceous plant. The most appreciated fruits are those from female plants, and are berries with an appearance and size similar to a melon, whose weight can vary between half a liter and 8 kilos.

Traditional uses: Papaya juice has traditionally been used as a digestive, to treat diseases of the respiratory tree (asthma, bronchitis, tuberculosis, cough), osteoarthritis and edema.

The Ananas sativus plant has a set of small berries welded together, forming the fruit, which we know as pineapple, which once ripe acquires yellow-orange tones.

Benefits: The main action of pineapple extract is hydration, it helps not to lose the transepidermal water of the skin (TEWL), thanks to its content of carbohydrates, which are capable of absorbing water, in addition to helping to avoid the loss of this, thus slowing down dehydration. While its high content of α-hydroxy acids, they help stimulate cell regeneration. It also stands out for its vitamin C content, which gives it a stimulating activity of collagen synthesis, and an antioxidant action.

Origin: It is a flat one that presents a basal rosette of large, whole leaves, with thorny edges, which can reach 60 cm in length.

Traditional uses: The indigenous people of the Amazon use pineapple juice as a digestive, healing, deworming and abortifacient. While in Malaysia, they use the juice of immature fruits applied to the scalp for 15 minutes to treat dandruff.

The pomegranate, Punica granatum, is a small deciduous fruit tree of the Lythraceae family, whose fruit is the pomegranate.

Benefits: Pomegranate oil is mainly composed of fatty acids; mainly punic acid (60%), and to a lesser extent linoleic acid (2-15%), oleic (3-12%), palmitic (1-10%) and stearic (1-5%). In addition, it is rich in antioxidants, free ions (potassium, calcium and magnesium) and vitamin C. In its composition, phytosterols (beta-sitosterol, campesterol and stigmasterol) also stand out, as well as high concentrations of tocopherols.

There are numerous works that suggest that pomegranate seed oil could have beneficial effects for the body, such as promoting the regeneration of epidermal tissue, stimulating the immune system in vivo, and showing protective activity.

Origin: This tree is native to the region that spans from Iran to the northern Himalayas in India, and was cultivated and naturalized throughout the Mediterranean since ancient times. The cultivation of the pomegranate has been known for at least 5000 years in Western Asia and North Africa. It was planted in the hanging gardens of Babylon and is carved on Egyptian bas-reliefs.

Pomegranate oil is obtained by first pressing the organically grown pomegranate seeds.

Traditional uses: The ancient Egyptians prepared with its juice a light wine with a raspberry flavor, beneficial for those who were prone to constipation, diarrhea and slow intestinal transit. In gargles, it relieves persistent coughs, and is effective in case of fever, diarrhea, colic and can also serve as a vermifuge. A drink is extracted from the pomegranate, the "sambu", used in regeneration and internal cleansing cures that, according to its preparers, also helps to lose excess weight.

Benefits: Raspberry or Rubus idaeus is extremely rich in phenolic compounds such as anthocyanins, anthocyanins, flavonoids, flavanols, phenolic acids, polyphenols, tannins and ascorbic acid (vitamin C), very powerful antioxidant compounds. For this reason, raspberry has high antioxidant capacities, reducing oxidative processes in our skin. In addition, this extract shows great anti-radical properties that are very useful in photoaging treatments, since it allows to fight against free radicals, protecting cells from possible oxidative damage. In one study, raspberry extract was potentially effective in preventing UVB6 radiation-induced photoaging of the skin.

Origin: The raspberry is the fruit of a wild plant known as Rubus idaeus. It is native to Europe and it seems that it comes from ancient Greece, where it is well known and appreciated, from there it spread throughout the continent.

The small evergreen shrub produces white flowers in summer, followed by the popular red berries, which are eaten raw or cooked. In medicine, raspberries were used to treat sores, conjunctivitis, wounds, burns, varicose ulcers, and inflammation of the mouth. Today, its use is more widespread in food to make jams, jellies, wines, syrups and purees.

The Rosehip grows wild in Chile, preferably between the Cordillera de la Costa and that of the Andes, being a shrub of 0.5 to 3 meters of young and very thorny stems.

Benefits: Rosehip oil quickly penetrates the upper layers of the skin, helping cell renewal and stimulating skin regeneration. It mainly contains highly unsaturated triglycerides (greater than 90%), with the essential fatty acids oleic, linoleic and linolenic standing out mainly.

These unsaturated fatty acids are vital nutrients both in the formation of the cell membrane and in the defense mechanisms and in the growth of the skin, conferring properties of fluidity, flexibility and permeability, making it an ideal product for skin care. skin. According to the latest scientific conclusions, it is one of the most powerful dermal regenerators that exist. Its use significantly reduces wrinkles and signs of premature aging.

Origin: The pseudo fruit of the rosehip, reddish-orange in color, contains many true fruits, erroneously called seeds, being their manual collection. It is dried in the sun or in ovens at less than 60 ºC, in order to avoid the loss of vitamin C from its bark. It has traditionally been used for wrinkles, stretch marks, burns, and skin blemishes.

The oil is obtained by first pressing or cold pressing the fruit or the seeds. It is then subjected to various processes that improve its stability: reduction of acidity, deodorization, partial depigmentation, stabilization and filtration.

The Sempervivum is obtained from Helichrysum stoechas flowers, rich in flavonoids, and derivatives of α-pyrone, florogluinol and acetophenone.

Benefits: Due to its content in flavonoids and acetophenones, it has antioxidant activity, resulting from the combination of the chelating and free radical scavenging properties of iron, which cause skin aging. In addition, its purifying and calming function stands out, thanks to its essential oil content.

Origin: Since ancient times, the immortelle has been used to treat chronic cough, bronchitis, fever, muscle aches, phlebitis and liver problems. Likewise, it has also been used to counteract allergic reactions, such as asthma.

Benefits: Shea butter or Butyrospermum Parkii is a natural ingredient used for body care and cosmetics, since its protective and moisturizing properties are exceptional. It is an excellent cell regenerator, which can be used in any part of the body and its composition is rich in vitamins A, E and F and minerals.

The properties of Shea butter are very broad: It protects the skin barrier from external factors, hydrates and nourishes the skin, improving its elasticity, acts as an anti-irritation element on delicate skin, beneficial for blemishes, prevents cold damage, offers exceptional results for stretch marks and fine lines, and many other qualities in hair and nail products.

Origin: The butter is obtained from the nuts produced by Karité, a tree located mainly in the savannah of countries such as Ivory Coast, Mali, Burkina Faso or Sudan and is considered there as a sacred tree. It can grow to more than 16 meters in height, with a meter in diameter and is a centenary tree.

Traditional uses: For centuries, in African towns the fruit of the Karité tree has been used. Throughout history it has been possible to verify that each town enjoyed different elaborations and different recipes; the pulp was generally stewed together with the peel. They use it as a kitchen element to gratin, fry or make sauces.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis (almond tree) is a deciduous tree of the Rosaceae family. Its fruit, the almond, is edible and contains a significant proportion of essential fatty acids.

Benefits: Sweet almond oil is colorless or light yellow in color. It is composed mainly of triglycerides of oleic fatty acids (62-86%) and linoleic (20-30%). To a lesser extent, it contains a considerable proportion of essential fatty acids (Myristic, Palmitic, Palmitoleic, Heptadecanoic, Stearic, Linolenic, Arachidic, Behenic and Erucic), those that must be derived from the diet, since the body does not synthesize them.

Sweet almond oil has different properties of interest in cosmetics, highlighting among them that it is not irritating, sensitizing or comedogenic, it can be emulsified easily, it is stable to hydrolysis within a wide pH range, it has a great capacity to absorption and penetration into the skin, as well as moisturizing and restructuring capacity, it allows solubilizing active ingredients of a lipophilic nature and is very easy to spread on the skin. This set of properties makes almond oil ideal for improving skin tone and complexion. A study4 suggests that, if these properties are studied in detail and used properly, the use of this oil could help to minimize scars and contractures.

Regarding its cosmetic applications, it acts as a lubricant on the surface of the skin, giving it a soft and smooth appearance, which is why it is used in therapeutic massage to lubricate the skin during a massage session, and many consider it an effective emollient. .

Sweet almond oil has wide use in cosmetics, which is why it is used in many different products: bath oils, lipstick, sunscreen, moisturizers, cleansers, and skincare.

Origin: The almond tree is native to Iran and neighboring countries. It was spread along the shores of the Mediterranean to North Africa and southern Europe, and more recently implanted in other parts of the world, especially California, United States. The wild form of the almond tree grows in parts of the historical region of Syria. The oil is obtained by pressing the seeds of the fruit, the almond, once dehulled.

Traditional Uses: Almond oil has been used for its many health and beauty benefits since the ancient civilizations of India, China, and Greece. Historically, almond oil had been used in ancient Chinese, Ayurvedic, and Greek-Persian medical schools to treat dry skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, thereby promoting smooth, healthy skin.

Currently various professionals such as beauticians, aromatherapists and masseurs use almond oil for its numerous emollient and skin rejuvenating properties.

Thymus vulgaris, commonly called thyme, is a small aromatic perennial shrub, belonging to the Labiadas family. It has a variable height between 10 and 40 cm, woody stems with leaves of up to 15 mm and small lilac or white flowers.

Benefits: In the composition of its leaves and flowers, three groups of components of interest stand out: flavonoids (luteol and apigenol heterosides, methoxylated flavones, flavanones, flavonols and luteolin2 heterosides), tannins (serpentin, acid and neutral saponins, labiatic acids, oleanolic and ursolic, chlorogenic and caffeic phenylcarboxylic acids, rosmarinic acid, lithospermic acid and resins 2) and essential oil (thymol, carvacrol, p-cymene, γ-terpinene and β-caryophyllene1,2).

The main components of the water-soluble extract of thyme are flavonoids and tannins, so its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity is particularly noteworthy:

- Antioxidant activity. Rosmarinic acid, together with hydroxycinnamic derivatives and flavonoid compounds, proved to provide an interesting antioxidant activity in vitro, inhibiting the production of superoxide anions and lipid peroxidation in microsomal and mitochondrial systems under induction with iron.

-Anti-inflammatory activity. Some components of thyme have anti-inflammatory activity, for example carvacol and thymol, which have shown inhibition on the enzyme cyclooxygenase in animal models, as well as inhibition of the complement pathway and inhibition of nitric oxide production 2. Rosmarinic acid also has anti-inflammatory activity. On the other hand, there are reports about the anti-inflammatory action that phenolic compounds confer on thyme extracts.

Origin: It is a native of the western Mediterranean region, especially southern Italy. It grows wild in dry thickets, rocky and sunny soils. It is widely cultivated in almost all countries as a culinary aromatic plant, especially in southern France, Spain, Morocco and North America.

The thyme extract used by KUESHI is obtained from the leaves and flowers of organically grown plants.

Traditional Uses: Thyme has been used conventionally for spasmodic coughs, laryngitis, bronchitis, and urinary tract infections. Also as a decongestant and antiparasitic. In external use, against different types of skin infections or wounds.

Olea europaea, commonly called olive tree, is a tree with a wide crown, a thick trunk that can reach 15 m in height, although when cultivated it is pruned to reduce its height and make the fruit, the olive, from which it is extracted more accessible. the oil, greenish yellow.

Benefits: Olive oil is mainly composed of triglycerides1 of oleic fatty acid (56-85%) and to a lesser extent of palmitic fatty acid (7.5-20%), linoleic (3.5-20%), stearic, pamitoleic, linolenic, arachidic and behenic. In addition, it also contains small amounts of free fatty acids, colorants, fat-soluble vitamins, waxes, etc.

As cosmetic ingredients, olive oil has different applications:

-Oily phase of creams and emulsions: Its content of fatty acid triglycerides is ideal for serving as the basis for cosmetic formulations with a rich and creamy texture.

-Solubilization and stabilization of fat-soluble ingredients: Its lipophilic character helps the dissolution, dispersion and stabilization of fat-soluble ingredients, like many of the active principles used in cosmetics.

-Protection and hydration: Forms a semi-permeable film on the skin that protects it from external factors and reduces water evaporation, increasing skin hydration.

-Flexibility: Softens and softens the skin, giving it a softer and smoother appearance.

-Antioxidant: Virgin olive oil contains oleuropein, an esterified glycoside with great antioxidant power.

Origin: Olive oil is obtained by crushing the olive, pressing the resulting paste and centrifuging the liquid to separate the oil from the aqueous part.

Traditional uses: In Egyptian and Roman culture there are many archaeological references to products created with olive oil and its benefits. Athletes used it to protect their skin from the sun and heat. Gladiators rubbed oil on their skin to make it more slippery and flexible. The Greeks were the main producers of olive oil scented ointments and exported them to the rest of the Mediterranean.

Olive oil has been present in balms, ointments, for burns, hard skin, otitis, wounds, sprains and dislocations.

The main action of vitamin C is to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and to prevent the synthesis of melanin. In addition, it can also intervene in the synthesis of collagen, helping to improve the appearance of the skin and eliminating free radicals.

Benefits: Vitamin C has calming, purifying and antioxidant effects, as well as helping to brighten the skin.

Origin: This product is a derivative of ascorbic acid, that is to say, of Vitamin C.